Hi FF - if you can, post the measurements of your tank and i'll do a gallon conversion for you (it's good to keep on hand

)
Further to Meg's great advice - my first suggestion would be if you can, invest in some drop tests. These are invaluable especially when setting up a new tank. You see the first 6 weeks is when you go through the nitrogen cycle which is basically natures chain reaction. This is the 'birth' of various types of nitrifying bacterias, each with their own job to do. So in separate stages, each new bacteria consumes the previous one, and in turn converts to the next bacteria. The three stages are ammonia, nitrites and nitrates.
While you're cycling, testing the water daily is crucial to the survival of any fish. Ammonia at any level is very toxic to fish - as are the nitrites they're converted to.
To give you an idea - ammonia is given off by fish through their gills and also through fish waste (poop and pee). When ammonia levels rise rapidly to near-dangerous your fish may show signs of discomfort, such as rapid breathing, poor feeding and darting about. This means that 1st stage bacteria are beginning to become established and this is where you need ammonia binders to convert into a non-toxic form. Weak fish may succumb to ammonia poisoning so regular partial water changes are necessary to dilute ammonia and reduce stress.
Then next comes the nitrite stage which is the waste product from ammonia-eating bacteria. While a less toxic than ammonia, high levels can also cause death. When nitrites get into a fishes blood stream it can hamper their red blood cells ability to carry oxygen. At high levels this to will cause fish to suffocate and can be seen by a fish swimming frequently to the surface to get air. So again, test water, do partial water changes but add salt to 0.1%. The salt will help protect your fish at this stage..
Then stage 3 is easy - ammonia should be down to 0, nitrites should be down to 0 but your nitrates will start to climb slowly. This is only detrimental to a fish if levels get high but with weekly waterchanges, these should remain in a safe range.
So you see FF - a lot to take in

and that's why having your own test kits can be what saves a fish in the end. They indicate when levels get too high, or when you need to do a waterchange etc....
I think your little guy is displaying signs of stress possibly due to high ammonia levels... So my suggestion in lieu of test kits would be to do daily waterchanges of about 20% - it will help dilute the more toxic levels until your tank has completed its cycle.
I hope this makes sense - I was going to point you to a link but just ended up typing, typing and typing some more
I hope this helps some and any other questions you have or if you need clarification, please ask away