Yesterday I spied in my local nnnnnn a 55 gallon rubbermaid tub for $10. The following is the explosion that went off in my head. Please bare with me! I am still trying to work out the bugs with this idea and would love feed back from people who know more about what I am talking about than I do!

I would use the 55 gallon tub for the main aquarium. No substrate, but many plants that are tied to rocks/drift wood. I would build a supporting frame work around and under this tub to keep it from bowing out. It will be placed next to a south facing window so plently of natural light.

From this 55 gallon tub I want to pump the water through some type of mechanical filtration than into a 10 gallon rubbermaid tub that is just above the 55g and to the side. In this tub I would have LOTS of plants and some snails some bio balls and anything else I could stuff in there for the biological filtration. I will have florecent lighting (compact florecent screw-ins) hanging above this tub for the plants. From this tub I will have the water "fall" back into the first 55g tub. Maybe I could even have a trickle tower worked in there some how.

Around the whole "thing" I will use "something" to form fake rocks with nooks and cranies for house plants (not touching aq water.)

Now, the 55g, would it need to be lifted off of the floor? If so, could I add bottom drains for the pump to pull the water from and into the machanical filtration? If not how would I clean the 55g? (I use a vaccuum with the tank I have now.)

Big dreams but I love to build!! I know enough to know that I know very little. Tell me what I'm missing/forgetting/haven't even thought of! I want to put my to goldies in the 55g and maybe two more.

Oh, My goldies would be sooo happy!

Anita

So, basically a reinforced 55 rubbermaid indoor pond with a 10 gallon sump running a waterfall in?

Quite doable. I've seen similar things done (though not with rubbermaids).

Unfortunately, I'm not a pond person so I can't tell you the specifics.

An excellent idea.

And very easy to build too.....

Firstly, If the tub is clearish plastic, you'll need to make sure that its a little thicker than most. Clear plastic has a tendency to crack or split if its not thick enough. But, moat plastics nowadays atre very durable so, who knows?

You have many options for supporting the tub. You can build a log cabin style frame around it out of 4x4 green wood. Or you could stack cinderblocks or bricks around it. theres quite a few other way to do it but my personal favorite would be the log cabin style 4x4's.

To build your filter, all youll need is a powerhead/prefilter combo to hang or submerge in the tub, a smaller rubbermaid bin to hold the bio-balls and plants and a few connectors and bulkhead fittings to run the plumbing to and from the filter. The rest is self explanatory.

Here's a couple of links that describe the filter and frame I'm speaking of ( I borrowed this picture from Ranchugirl in the DIY section under "simple and cheap filter") :


And here's another pic I borrowed from Ranchugirl in the pond forum, I think you get the idea of the overall appeal of the log cabin style i'm speaking of. Very nice indeed:


If you have any questions on the specifics of the plumbing or whatever, just fire away!

Paul


(Andrea, If you are reading this, I hope you don't mind me linking to your pics. I couldn't think of any better examples than yours. )

Thanks for the reply, toothless! I was planning on doing a fake rock thing, but this looks much easier and neater. Plus I could build a shelf for a trickle tower with a shelf above that for my plant filter, all wrapped with the land scape ties. (With access doors of course.)

I don't think I will have a water fall feature because of the off gassing of C02 (or is that a mute point concidering the trickle tower) and the noise. After all it is going to be in the house. On the other hand, I have three boys and maybe a water fall would muffle some of their noise!

Any thoughts on a bottom drain? How would I circulate that amount of water? What would be a good pre-filter? Where should I place the pre-filter/machanical filter? What is a good pump? How many gph? Would gph mess with the plants in the filter? Where should the water enter the plant filter, back, bottom? Will gravity work for the filter~trickle tower~aquarium? Do I build a platform for the tank so I am able to vaccuum the bottom?

All the help you can give when it comes to plumbing is needed!! I have "fixed" the kitchen sink twice and the hot water still leaks!

So much to think about before I start! I love the planning stage of any project!

Anita

Okey dokey, here goes:


You dont need a bottom drain. With a powerhead/pre-filter, you just lay then down on the bottom and it picks up all the poo and uneaten food and traps it in the sponge or floss or both before it pipes the water up and into the plant/biofilter. Besides, if you want to go modifying a cheap plastic storage bin thats suppose to hold 500 Lbs of water and plants. If you wanted to get all tech like that, I would go with one of the pre-formed ponds that come in some nice round variations. I think they even have 50 gallon sizes too. Those, if i'm not mistaken have a little recess built in just for bottom drains too. Here's a link to a good source: pre-formed ponds

there are other styles available elsewhere on the net that may also suit your taste. All you have to do is build a simple table around it for the rim to sit on.

if you'd still like to go with your original idea, just make sure to buy a bin that has a little strength to it.

For every ten gallons of water the pond holds, you want 100gph pump. For a 50 gallon tank, you want 500gph. But, your planning on having an extensive filtration system so you don't need all that much gph in the end. maybe 300gph total. However, you can just buy a pump thats rated a little higher than you need and have a ball valve to control the flow.

Are you thinking of having a trickle tower for just 50 gallons of water? AAANd a plant filter? How about just having a plantfilter that has bio-balls down in the bottom of it? Wouldn't that cut a whole stage out of the equation? If your woried about not having enough oxy for the bio-bugs, you could always drop an aerator down in the bottom.

Dataguru (a mamber here at kokos) has a plantfilter that does just this for her 55 gallon (well planted) tank. Here's a link to her page: Bett's Aquarium Page

Check out her plantfilter there. I think you'd like to talk some shop with her. She's sharp as a tack!

As far as a platform, what exactly are you referring too? An edge you can lean on/put plants on? If you leave very little gravel at the bottom, you wont have to vacuum at all, the pump at the bottom with the pre-filter does all the work for you. Of course, hitting it up with the vac every now and then can't hurt.

Plumbing is the easy part, those will be the final purchases as we need to know the hardware we're working with first.

Keep those questions coming

I have read much about DataGuru's plant filter! It was her filter that inspired my own ideas. Thank-you for the links! The pre-formed ponds are wonderful but the more I think about it the more I like the pond liner idea. I could biuld the pond any shape I wish and as deep as I want. Plus, landscape ties around a rubbermaid seems like a waste of space. (Rubbermaid tapers the containers at the bottom and the top edge is "curvey." A pond liner would form itself into all the corners of any shape I build.)

Yes, my plan is for a plant filter and a trickle tower!! lol I know its over kill. I don't think I will put in the trickle tower. It's just very winter here, and I am going crazy not doing anything. I can't garden, build, play outside with my 3 ds, nothing.

I'm looking into pumps. My lfs only has one and it is tiny! I will need to order one online. Do you know a good store?

I was thinking I might need to raise the tank up on a PLATFORM so I could siphon the poop off of the bottom of the tank. I think the pre-filter and pump will take care of that for me.

I am sure I have more questions, but I will be very buisy this next week so I won't be here to ask them. Thank-you for all of your help!!

Anita

If you decide to go the pondliner route, Make well and sure that you double or even triple ply the liner. Being that this project is an indoor one, You have to secure yourself against leaks.

When you get started, try taking photos so we can see the project taking form. That would be especially cool!

Good LucK!

Neat idea.

I've been considering building an indoor pond, but I don't think I'm going to.

You could put your mechanical and biological filtration media in the plant filter. I've seen barrel filters like that. They have baskets kinda like the cannister filters do. the water runs thru the mechanical filtration first. That'd be a pain tho I think.

I'd get a mag drive pump. Uses less electricity.
You'll want to read up on pump head pressure
http://www.aquariumpros.com/articles/headpress.shtml

Check this trickle filter out: http://www.geocities.com/michael_mcquay/TT/TT.html
That's the most efficient biological filter you could make. Lots of O2 for the biobugs and it's suppose to help by gassing off nitrAtes.

What an awesome trickle filter idea!

You know what I really like about it? The fact that the pond isn't unundated by rippling water everywhere. It has a calm and serene surface that allows you to see right down into the water.

Woke up to the powerhead making noise and and not pumping and a very full aquarium this morning. Glad I had some leeway or I would have had a wet living room. I almost ordered a pump and the plumbing stuff I'd need to re-plumb the plant filter today. Dr Fosters and Smith had some decent prices on pumps.

If its not too much to ask, could you guys post the exact supplies I would need and how much each of them would cost if I wanted to do this indoors with maybe a 20 to 30 gallon tub to be used as a tank, not a pond?

Well, honstly, all you really need is a 20-30 gallon tub, a powerhead (200-300gph) with sponge filter attachment, a flourescent light strip and a bit of gravel for the bottom.

Everything else is extra and can be considered personal preferences.

The tub would run about 5-25 dollars

The powerhead with sponge filter attachmentruns about 10-30 dollars

A light strip costs anywhere from 15-50 dollars

My reasons for suggesting such a simplistic setup for a 20-30 gallon tub/pond is that the gallonage is so low that a huge bio-filter with trickle tower and all would just be excess.

Does that help any?

That trickle filter is awsome! I like the "earthiness" of it.

Well, it looks like I will get to plan for a longer period of time. It turns out we might be moving. Time will tell. No use setting it all up only to have to move it. Maybe I could build just the plant filter and use it on my 29 gallon!

Data, I am worried about flooding. I was going to have gravity feed the water back into the tank through tubing close to the top of the planted filter. If the power cuts out the pump will stop filling the filter. Would a "one-way-valve" prevent the water from the filter going back through the pump and into the tank? Or am I over simplifing?

Anita

So, Paul, you found my pictures, hm?
Anita, I didnt' worry about backflow when I did the filter in the first picture Paul posted - the hose coming from the pump and going up to the filter hangs only lightly over the rim of the filter, and maybe an inch or so into the water. If the power stops, the hose connection to the pump only can suck up that one inch of water, until the hose end is dry, and the suction stops.
Same thing with the overflow in the tank. If you have the overfow high up in the filter, it will go dry after only an inch or so. The filter will contain the main part of its water. I could have put the two white overflow pipes a bit higher, but since the main tank didn't hold water all the way to the top, I didn't worry too much.
The plant filter idea in general is a wonderful one. I have 3 of those running. Actually, 1 of them acts as the main filter of a 160 gl tub, the other two are after a smaller main filter.
The one filtering a whole tub by itself holds both materials, for biological filtration (bioballs) and mechanical filtration (sponges). Not to mention that the gunk naturally settles on the bottom of the filter, thats why its so important the the overflow back into the main tank is higher up. If its too low, it will suction up the waste on the bottom back into the main tank. All I ever do for maintanance on that filter is vaccuuming off the bottom, and rinse the sponges every now and then, thats all. I gotta take a picture of the filters now, they are little different than the one above.

Fast question for Betty - do you have the plants in your filter in pots?

Thanks Ranchugirl! Your ponds are very cool. The landscape ties give me a thrill and I have some in the back ysrd!! I was thinking of having the water pumped from the tank into a pond pot filled with filter floss for the machanical filteration and from there it would drain/fall into the plant filter. Think that'll work? Or must I filter out particals before the water reaches the water pump? I would love to only need the plant filter! Filters are ugly and cumbersome. I need to clean my Aqua Clears every week.

Why did you use two overflow pipes ffrom the filter to the tank? Just to "make sure" there wouldn't be an over flow problem?

Thanks everyone. I think setting thinks up like "this" is going to look so cool plus I think it will be cheaper than a normal aquarium. (No one has ever accused ME of being normal, so this must be the way to do it! )

Anita

You can eliminate the need for the filter floss in a pot by utilizing a prefilter on the powerhead at the bottom of your pond. In fact, Aquaclear powerheads that have the optional prefilter cages are made so that the floss cages are stackable for more floss area and it can go longer between floss changes. Plus, with the plant filter, you wont have to worry aboutlosing any bio-bugs on the floss and youll be able to just "toss" the old sheet and add a new one!

Heres a link to a pic of the unit im talking about:

prefilter/stackable

With the pond size your talking about and the big plantfilter, heres the size aquaclear powerhead you need to run the prefilter attachment on:

aquaclear 402


This little unit with the prefilter attachment really does a good job of keeping the water clean. Theyre stackable and to boot, they come with little plastic media chambers for adding whatever you like. As I said above, you can buy bulk filterfloss and just wrap it with new once a week for crystal clear water. (do I sound like a salesman yet? )

Last but not least, there is a special sleeve you can buy for pretty cheap that filters out the really fine stuff (1 micron). Run this sleeve in the prefilter for a few hours ater tank maintenance and you get water that looks like its welling up out of a spring!


Just a few suggestions.....

WOW! Thanks for the links, toothless! I sent my husband the power head link with the implication that I would like it. It is surprising how inexpensive it is. The LFS is very high priced.

I like the pre-filter, too! I've been trying to invent something like that in my head. Next time I won't waist my time, I'll just ask you! Does it say on the box what size tubing to use?

It's all coming together quite well, in my imagination. I am going to build the plant filter and have it going "great guns" before I build the pond.

Any idea how I will keep my cats out of the pond? They really like to sit on top of the tanks and drink the water coming from the filters! No one has reached in yet but any ideas how to end the problem before it starts will be wonderful.

Anita

Anita, the only reason I have two pipes for the outflow is that the pump I used is a rather strong one, and with just one outflow the filter would have overflowed, since one outflow alone wasn't able to handle the mass of water coming into the filter. With a weaker pump one outflow would have been enough.
My cats used to drink from the water as well, until both of them fell in (not at the same time though ). That was the end of my cats coming too close to the tank, EVER! For covering the rubbermaid you can use a sheet of egg crates (cut to size) that I saw in Homedepot in the lighting section.

Thanks Ranchugirl! The only problem I have with that is that it is quite...erm...ugly! I might need to teach them some water safety. Get to close and you will go for a swim, guys!

I'm to sleepy to think! And type!! Good night!

Anita

Im not exactly sure what the outer diameter of the 402 powerhead return is but I'll see what I can dig up. I do know that youll want to clamp whatever hose you use with a plastic clamp though, no metal......


Heh, I get to live vicariously through you! I will one day have an indoor pond much like what you are designing!

Its late for me too, gnite!

Thanks for the cost advice toothless, so the most it would cost me would be about $105?

Probably at or around that price for a 30 gallon tub/pond. Of course, if you wanted to get all top quality new stuff, it would run a bit more.

My DH says he will get the power head for me! I apealled to his fruggle (sp) minded-ness. I told him I could use this one power head to power one plant filter that will replace the three filters I have on the GF tank. Saving money! Of course I failed to mention the need for lights. The filter will be in a south facing window and if I use mostly "house plants" this should be enough light!

I am excited!

Anita

Alright!

Your lovin it then! Are you getting two and connecting them? By the way, the powerhead will work much better if it is laid down on the bottom. this way, more floss surface is near the bottom and muck will be sucked up much faster.

So, what are the dimensions of the frame your going to build? We can figure out the actual gallonage for you.

I would say the maximum size plantfilter you would need is 3-5 gallons. Go with the 5 gallons if you want to grow floaters like duckweed for your fish to eat.

Do you have any ideas for creating a failsafe method of keeping the return on the plantfilter free of debris? This is perhaps one of the more important design aspects of your whole project. I've been tooling with this is a design that I want to employ on my own plantfilter when I build one.

Click to view attachment

The black hose coming up the backside is the intake from the powerhead/prefilter. the prefiltered water comes in circulates around and does its thing in the plantroots and bioballs on the bottom and is then forced to go through a sheet of plastic canvas (long red line) once in this area that should remain void of anything but water, it is forced through a little box made of plastic canvas and silicone. then down the return tube and srayed across the surface of the pond.

There are all kinds of neat little gadjets that you could buy that makes construction a breeze but I prefer the much cheaper DIY route. A little silicone and some ingenuity goes a long way.

I have never heard of plastic canvas! What is it? Got a picture? (I'm asking toothless if HE has a picture! ) I was thinking a down spout strainer covered with a knee high nylon stocking and this over the hose/pipe leading back to the tank. (Gravity will do most of the work.) I am also thinking of adding a second pipe/hose an inch or two above the first as a fail safe. This hose was going to join into the first hose, but if it was plugged up with gunk...well that wouldn't work. This hose would then need to enpty into the tank as well. (maybe I can hide most of the "workings" in the back!)

I have been looking at sump filters and most have dividers. What do you think about using this same idea of dividers to force the water around in the filter and around the plant roots and bio-balls. (How do I explain this?) If you are looking down at the filter from the top you would divide the container lengthwise, using two pieces of plasic that are two thirds the length of the container. One piece of plastic would be attached to the bottom and one short side of the filter (the piece is running lengthwise and standing on the long edge) and the other piece of plastic is attached to the botttom and the oppisite short side. The water would then be forced to flow in an "S" shaped river.

Of course, this idea could be me trying to fix a problem that just does not exist! Wouldn't be the first time!! I am thinking of dead spots in the water and not enough flow through the bio-balls. The bio-ball slowing the movement of the water/deflecting the water so that it doesn't accually go through the bio-balls. Am I making any sense?

I'm not building the pond right now! We might be moving so why make something else to move. I am going to make the filter though and use it on the tank my goldies are in now. It is a 29 gallon with two goldies (one common and one fancy) and a 6 inch common pleco. I think I am a little over stocked so the extra water volume is wanted/needed. I am also thinking a 10 gallon plant filter. The bigger the better.

How many bio-balls would I need? What is the best kind, 1'', 1 1/2"? Does the guy who sells the power head sell the bio-balls? What is a good price for them? Oh, do I need two power heads, or will one be good enough for now?

You would think I would run out of questions, but like with everything else, the more I know, the more I know that I don't know much at all!

Anita

Thats exactly how I feel every day!

Well, the stocking over the screen for the outlet to the pond/tank would need a cage to keep the stocking open with more surface area. Unless of course, you were to get a bottom drain That already employs a cage.

The drains should be at the top end of the filters so that during power outtages, all of the water would not completely drain back into the tank/pond. Both drains (common and failsafe) should be at the top really. This will keep the plant roots and bioballs wet and viable during an outtage.

In my opinion, the s shaped channel through the plantfilter is an awesome idea but might be a little too much.

As far as bio-balls go, yes, you can get them at BigAls. Go for the cheapos and whatever size you like. Again, your application doesn't need "peak" performance at "peak" prices. For a 10 gallon plantfilter I would say 3-4 gallons would be more than enough. Check there for prices and volume.

You wont really need to worry about dead spots with the gph were shooting for. If you can get 250 gph coming out of the plantfilter, you've got enough filtration for a 50 gallon tank while having enough current in the plantfilter. That is, considering the size and nitrification capacity of the plantfilter.

One powerhead/pump should be plenty. the 802 powerhead should be capable of doing what you need it to do. Although, if you really wanted the assurance of a real sump, go with the pump in this link: mag drive A little tweaking is all it will take to connect the aquaclear prefilter to the mag drive pump. Or you can use the spongefilter that comes with it. Since this pump will push 500gph sumberged with no hoses, by the time it pushes water up 1 1/2 to 2 feet, the gph will be reduced. I'm still looking for the tech specs on these pumps so that I can get a general idea of what the gph will be going into the plantfilter. I'll let you know what i find.

Oh and by the way, heres a pic of plastic canvas: plastic canvas

That stuff works really well with a little fishing line to tie the panels together. Add aquarium sealant to the joints for a great bond.

Good luck with the plantfilter!

For the plastic canvas, its called Aida, if I remember right. I see it all the time in the stitchery section of the craft store, and its mostly for smaller children learning how to do needle work.
Paul, your drawing is really good. That is exactly the same in- and output I am using, and its practically impossible to have the filter completely empty back into the tank/pond. It automatically stops at the lowest pipe that comes either in or out, in my case it doesn't drain more than about 2 inches off of the top.
With all that plant filter talk I wonna go to HD tomorrow and find some of those plants that Betty has....

I've been sick over the weekend and had a bit of time on my hands to meddle with ideas for you (and for me as well). I'm finally starting to feel better today. Wich is good because i'm getting tired of sitting on my duff.....

Anyway, I had a little lightbulb go off in my head last night and came up with this idea:

The black tab on top is the inlet

The two on the bottom are the outlet

The red boxes encasing the outlets is the plastic canvas. (sorry I forgot to mention what its used for)

The round containers are the plant pots (plant baskets are best)

The blue balls are of course, bio-balls

And last but not least, the yellow bar is a centerbrace to keep the plastic from bowing out. This can be constructed very easily with almost anything you can think of. (I would heatwarp a strip of plastic to "clip" on it myself)

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

With this setup and the proper gph for the actual gallonage of the pond, you will achieve awesome water quality for your fish!

Im seriously getting excited about doing this for myself someday soon! In my current place, I don't have the room. Someday............

Oh yeah, andrea. Were you talking about the peace lilies? If so, those things are awesome nitrAte eaters and great marginals (they get big and lush). I think you gotta hit them up with some phosphorous to get them to bloom but I never worry about the blooms anyway, they look great.

Toothless. you have to be joking! I was thinking last night about using a planter box but running the water from end to end. Your way is better. More water turbulance in the filter. Maintainance will be a breeze with this set-up. Pull the plants out, vaccuum (being careful of the floaters), put the plants back in.

How will you attach the canvas? Being able to remove them for cleaning is a must.

Ebay is selling bio-balls for less than Al's, but with shipping and the power head...! We are still working on details! I just want to built it! Of course I still need the plants, but I can always get them later.

I hope I've made so sense!? My DS are very much "little boys" this morning! LOL

Anita

Anita, if you use a small plastic container with holes instead of the canvas, then you can remove it very easily, and it doesn't fall apart like the canvas. I find those in dollar stores, they have holes all over. Put it with the top of the container towards the hole for the outputs, and the whole output hole is surrounded by the container with the holes, with no way for the bio balls, or floating plants, to escape through the holes into the main tank.
Peace lilies, yes! Thanks, Paul, that was the plant I was looking for!
Glad you are feeling better today, nothing worse than knocked out by a lousy cold!

Thats too funny that you were thinking along those same lines!



I was actually thinking of the plastic canvas being glued into place with silicone. Since this is the single most important part of the filter to keep running properly, I think it needs to be "set in stone", know what I mean? If one of the baskets were to be accidentaly bumped out of the way or whatever, the holes would quickly clog with debris. After all, this is an indoor pond and leaks and/or overflows could be disastrous.

All in all, this is these will be the only peices that will be permanently attached to the unit. Heck, later on, if need be, it can actually be pried off and replaced.

In my diagram above, the plastic canvas goes all the way to the bottom. You can secure separate panels of plastic canvas together with fishing line by weaving the line in and out of the holes on the edge of the panels. After the panels are tied together, you clip the excess line and swab the joints with silicone to secure them better. Then, let it dry while it is sitting in the shape it needs to be. once its dry, you silicone it it to the sides of the plantfilter. You'll find that you can create a very strong bond if you score (with the sharp tip of a pair of shears or a screw or something) the inside of the plantfilter where the plastic canvas is to be joined to it. This gives the silicone a little extra meat to grab onto and create its bond. The fact that the plastic canvas will have a little bit of a void where the outlet is will allow you to push a brush down and into it to clear any debris that may have buit up. On the planted side of the plastic canvas, you will have plenty of room to reach in and clear debris.

Honeslty though, either way will work just fine.

Oh and a little tip for when you are doing maintenence on the plantfilter:

While you are vucuuming and moving stuff around in the plantfilter, Place gravel vac vacuum bags over the return hose at the water surface and rubber band them there. This will catch any of the brown gunk that makes it out of the plantfilter through the returns. Once the cleaning is done and the water in the plantfilter has settled or cleared up a bit, remove the vacuum bags and rinse them for next time.

I found this on ebay. Will this work or is the one you (toothless) found better?

(Lets see if I can do this!)

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...4361509147&rd=1

Anita

It worked!

Well, To be honest, it looks like a good deal and all. I just don't trust powerheads all that much. They are designed to push water around IN the tank, not to push the water OUT of the tank. Now, this doesn't mean that they dont do just that. They will and they do a good job of it. It's just that when there's a power outtage or surged, air bubbles can get caught in the immpeller assembly. In a powerhead, this can spell trouble. The bubble has to be expelled before the water can begin pumping up the tube. Actual water pumps like the danner/supreme don't jam in this fashion. If the power goes out, the pump primes itself automatically. Its all in the differences in design and intended purposes......

I mean, you could certainly try a powerhead. But, I think Betty has had a few surprises from her use of a powerhead for a waterpump. Maybe she could elaborate a bit on them.

I am still quite new to Aquarium gadgets! Which on of these...

http://www.bigalsonline.com/catalog/catego...id1=2181;pcid2=

...do I want? They don't tell me ghp so I just do not know. Plus, how will I adjust the flow of water? I've got a 30 gallon now but when I build my pond, (the reason for this topic) it will be 60 or more gallons. (Oh how they grow!) Should I just get one now and a different one for the bigger pond? Can these pumps be used outside? (Thinking about moving the whole thing out doors for the summer!)


Anita

Here is probably the very best page for info on the Mag drive/supreme line of pumps:

Link

In my honest opinion, if your pond is going to be 60+ gallons but no more than 75 gallons, You should pick the mag 5. Running it at full blast should reap you about 450 gallons per hours. That is because the head pressure will be at 1 foot. Head pressure is when the pump has to push the water up a tube out of the water a distance. Its the backpressure that forms That slows the gph down a bit.

Now, if your pond is going to be 50-60 gallons, go with the mag 3. For the exact reasons listed above.


There are ball valves that you can get at pretty much any hardware store and they come with different connection sizes. Just try to find one that is meant for the tubing you will have to use for the pump you buy. (the page Privided above tells you the connector sizes. Wit hthis handy little gadjet, you will be able to set the flow in the pond at a completely custom setting.

Incidentely, the hoses or plumbing you use for the water returns from the plantfilter should be made out ofa larger pipe than you use for the intake tube. I would suggest 3/4 inch inner diameter tubing or plumbing. This way, you will avoind the pitfalls of not having enough return flow to keep the waterlevel steady in the plantfilter.

Hope this helps!

sorry to barge in here, but i have some questions if you all don't mind.

my plan was to purchase a 50 gal rubbermaid bin to make an outdoor pond. i have a very minimal (ok, non-exsistant) budget. so i was going to make a filter for the pond myslef. that's why i came to this bb. i was reading this thread and getting tons of info. but i'm a little confused about some things.

i LOVED the lava rock, trickle tower filter idea! and it doesn't even sound too difficult for me. but i don't understand. is that all you would need? is it a complete filter? and how does it do it? i mean i don't understand it i guess. to me it looks like it pulls water out of the pond. and then just sprays it on top of the lava rock to trickle down. is that it? that keeps your water clean? sorry to be a dunce, i'm so new to this stuff. but i love learning and i love being crafty.

also i was looking at those pumps ( the mags) just can't afford that. but might be able to afford a power head. could that work for the trikcle tower thing?

also, i WAS going to do the rubbermaid thing, but loved the photos of the box, home built, with a liner, ponds!! those are great! but how do you all figure out how many gallones you got? if you build it yourself how do you figure that out? i mean i would want at least 50 gals. more if i can afford to build it that big.

if i can't do the trickle tower, i just LOVE the planter, plant filter idea!! how cool is that?? does it matter what type of plants you have in it? how many? how big they have to be to start with?

sorry to steal the thread, you were just talking about everything i was working on anyway!

TIA!
cyn

No worries!

The laval rock bio-filter is indeed ran by a pump. However, before the water gets drawn into the pump to be moved, it is filtered through a sponge filter. Basically, just a sponge covered tube that is connected to the pump. This sponge is what is actually keeping the water free of debris. The laval rock is just a good place to grow tons of beneficial bacteria to keep the water free of ammonia and nitrItes.


While a powerhead might do just fine. It still stands a large chance of jamming up in some way if used in the scenario in this thread. Of course, there are some other ways to go about filtration that includes a powerhead instead of an in-line pump. Basically, it would be a contained unit that sits submerged in the water. A small bucket filled with laval rock and a sponge for a pre-filter would be the main stuff to work on. More on that later.

As for sizes and gallonage, I like to use a tank calculator to do the figuring. Here is a link to one: tank calculator

for plants, I really like the fast growing plants like peace lilies, pothos ivy, philodendron and other, succulent type of plants. Some plants are listed as being toxic to animals so, ask if you don't know. As for size, You could start out with a few 1 inch plants and by a single seasons end, you will have a lush, green, plantfilter!


If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask!

Sorry, I been way too busy at work and had to cut down on my online stuff. Totally forgot about this thread till Paul mentioned it.

That's a neat design!

Heres the pump (the 480) that I ended up getting to run the plant filter
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...64&N=2004+22788
It's a mag drive pump, has a foam prefilter and comes with various attachments. The aquaclear quickfilter fits nicely on it.

Andrea: I had a few potted plants in the filter till I added the trickle tower. I built a plant holder out of plastic canvas for the ivy and peace lillies. When I added the new pump, I also replumbed it using large PVC for the return and hose with a one-way valve for the pump side.

Yep, that ViaAqua pump is a good one, and similar to the ones I use all the time - made by Aquus, and called Surge pumps. They both seem to have the same design, and its virtually impossible to kill them. One of the pump's impeller finally gave in after around 4 years of use, and it hardly ever clogs. Which is important when you have plants - plant parts always get caught up in the prefilter of the pump, and some pumps just stop working completely.

I'd like to get a 30 gallon rubbermaid tub for an isolation tank while I re-do the baby koi tank to rid it of algae. I'm using some fishless cycling for it, and I need somewhere to put the baby koi for a few days. What would you suggest for this? Since it's only a few days, I'm not sure if I'd need support around the plastic. What type of Rubbermaid should I use for this temporary pond?