It would be a good idea to find out what your KH is. If it is over 7 degrees ( i think), then changing the pH with something like peat will be harder, and in order to lower it you will need to cut it with RO water or similar. Then decide if that is something you would want to deal with with every water change. If it is 7 or under, you can alter it with peat to get it lower. Stay away from pH down products regardless.
If you don't want to deal with peat (and the water coloration that results), or think it would be too much to deal with, look around for fish that will fit into your pH range w/o any tinkering.
http://www.fishprofiles.com and
http://www.aquaria.info both have searchable databases where you can look for fish you like and at least get some idea of whether they can handle your pH. Keep in mind that many fish can adapt to pHs outside the "ideal range" for them. German rams for instance (a dwarf cichlid), have an ideal pH of 5-7, and are generally considered to be fairly "delicate", but people keep them frequently in pH's of up to 7.8.
You can get hardier fish like zebra danios to cycle, but check that your store will take them back after cycling if you will not want them in the long run. Your tank is cycled when nitrites and ammonia have each spiked, and then dropped to 0, and nitrates are accumulating. This process takes between 4 and 7 weeks on average. I do not know how far along in cycling your goldfish tank was, and the fish food may not have been enough to sustain it anyway, so I would still get some hardier fish to start with. And yes, picking up a nitrate test kit would be good. You don't want to let them get too high, between 5 and 20 is "ideal" and lower than 5 is perfectly fine (its just hard to keep them that low, and you will want a little bit if you have any plants).
You do not need to add salt to the water.
Here is a link to a discussion about mollies and salt.
Oh yea, and they are cheap, but don't get neons to cycle, they don't tend to be at all hardy