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Breeding Goldies everything you need to know!

#1 User is offline   blinky000

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Posted 22 November 2004 - 02:28 PM

I've been breeding goldies for over a year now and have been experimenting with which methods turn out to be the most successful and am about to share my most top secret methods with you. Here is everything you would want to know about breeding goldies. If you’re lucky enough to have eggs already, just scroll to the section that you need.

What You’ll Need
Spare tank (5 US gals or more)
Brine shrimp cultivating kit
Aquarium salt
Methylene blue
Sponge filter and pump
Ice cream tub
Silk or real plants

Sexing Fish
The male goldfish will look more streamlined than the female, who will have a rather round looking belly. Also, the females vent (anus) will stick out whereas the males will not (although, as I have found, this method is not 100% correct but about 1% of the time, you’ll find a male with some identity issues!). Around breeding time, the males will get a line of spots on the first bone of the pectoral fin and gill covers like this:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v194/blinky000/02100416.jpg

Making Goldies Spawn
This is one of the most challenging parts of breeding goldfish. Some of the most successful ways to trigger spawning is to lower the temperature of your tank to about 64-68f for about 1-2 weeks. The tank needs to have real or silk plants in so the female has something soft to get bashed into to lay her eggs in. During this cold period, feed your fish lots of high protein meals (tubifex etc) and feed often. This will mean you have to do more regular water changes due to more waste being produced which will help with spawning induction. By this time, the female should look very round with eggs and fat. Then gradually warm the tank up to about 75-78ºf over the space of a few days.

During Spawning
While your fish are spawning, as the males follow the female constantly with their head up her backside she may get a bit battered, especially if your female is breed that tends to waddle like a pearlscale and your male is something like a common or shubunkin. If she gets too beaten up, take her out. If you're new to breeding, take out the plants with the eggs on and put them in a spare tank and wait for them to hatch. If you are very familiar with breeding and handling you fish, I would recommend hand spawning. Take the male(s) doing the chasing and put them into an ice cream tub or something like that filled with tank water. Gently squeeze the abdomen down to the vent. You should be able to see milt coming out. If it is a very fertile male, the water will be quite cloudy after a hand spawning session. Release the male back into the tank and take the female. Often, you just holding the female and her wriggling makes the eggs come out, if not, use the same method as you did for the male, only more gentle and as soon as the eggs come out, swirl them around with her tail to separate them as if they stick together, they will not develop properly. PLEASE DO NOT HAND SPAWN IF YOU ARE UNSURE OF YOUR ABILITIES OR ATTEMPT TO HAND SPAWN ANY FISH AT ANY TIME OTHER THAN DURING OR SHORTLY AFTER NATURAL SPAWNING. Squeezing a female while she is still very full of eggs can rupture the ovaries and cause potentially fatal internal damage. This is why it is best to hand spawn shortly after she has released most of her eggs during the natural spawning.

Care of Eggs
Once you have your tub of eggs, sink it in another tank of cycled water about (not stolen from another tank as this increases the chances of pathogens being spread onto the fry). The tank should only be 6” deep at this point and should be bare bottom. It should also have a sponge filter installed. Do not wipe off the algae from the inside of the tank as this is a good natural food for the fry. Put the temperature up to about 78ºf for optimal growth (if the tank is less than 5 US gals, don’t bother with a heater, it’ll just cook your eggs. Place in a warm room instead). I have found that adding aquarium salt to the fry tank at 0.3% concentration avoids problems such as flukes and should always be present with the fry at this concentration until the 4 month stage where they should be weaned off the salt gradually. Methylene blue is also useful for preventing fungus on small fry and eggs. Add some to the tank until the water is a ‘Windex’ blue. After a few days, you should be able to see little black dots inside the egg. At about day 5, the fry will move around inside the eggs occasionally. This should be around the time that they hatch. This is also the time to start cultivating baby brine shrimp. Kits can be easily obtained at you local pet store and aren’t too expensive or tricky to get going. I find other foods don’t kick start the growth of the fry and aren’t worth the bother.

Caring for the Fry
For the first couple of days after they hatch, the fry will hang off the plants of side of the tank. Do not feed them at this stage as they are re-absorbing their egg sacks. When they are free swimming, begin feeding small amounts of baby brine shrimp. Put in as many as the fry will eat in about 1-2 hours, four times per day. The fry will begin to look like fish in about 1-2 weeks. Do not do any water changes until the fry are about a month old and only do so very carefully with an air-line tube from the pump. However, you may need to get rid of excess food or dead fry from the bottom of the tank so a turkey baster can be a handy tool. At this stage, add soaked, crushed pellets to the diet. If there are any fry that are particularly small or particularly big, they should be separated from the rest of the group. At two months the fry should be getting big quickly so wean them off the baby brine shrimp as it can get costly when the fry are so big that they merely inhale the creatures! At three months, the fry should be changing colour and be about 1.5” big. For the next couple of months feed regularly, change the water regularly and look for homes for your babies!

If you do have any problems breeding, of course feel free to ask :)
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#2 Guest_blackmoore_*

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Posted 22 November 2004 - 02:40 PM

should the male and female be kept together whilst the are being conditioned, by conditioned i mean fed lots and making female fill with eggs? or introduce them together when ready?

should they be conditioned in the warmer temperature or the cold temperature?

#3 User is offline   maniacholic

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Posted 22 November 2004 - 05:02 PM

I find it better to seperate first then wait around like 1 to 2 days after the eggs developed in the female then releasing her with the male so you would probly get the months supply of developing eggs instead of mine having sex in a one week interval. Too much work in finding 2 different tanks just for breeding.
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#4 User is offline   eather.hey

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Posted 23 November 2004 - 11:27 PM

I think this should be pinned up top! Nice work girl!
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#5 User is offline   bling101

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Posted 25 November 2004 - 12:12 PM

i agree to this is a top notch topis and should be pinned i mite have a go at breeding my goldys since youve filled me with abishion of bieng a dady lol :D
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#6 User is offline   maniacholic

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Posted 25 November 2004 - 06:03 PM

being a daddy is always okay with me :lol: as long as you dont say the "m" word :ignore

:lol: jk jk
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#7 User is offline   blinky000

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Posted 02 December 2004 - 08:43 AM

:bump:
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#8 User is offline   maniacholic

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Posted 04 December 2004 - 07:16 PM

I can't believe this has'nt been pinned yet...
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#9 User is offline   ranchu_man

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Posted 05 December 2004 - 06:44 AM

Excellent article.. If no brine shrimp is available, can the frys be fed with cooked egg yolk alone until say a week or so before fedding them with finely grounded pallets? I am having hundreds of Ranchu frys which are newly hatched and feeding them with egg yolk and some grounded pallets not not sure whether they can survive. Brine shrimp is not available at all in our area.
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#10 User is offline   blinky000

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Posted 05 December 2004 - 08:37 AM

yeah, egg is fine. bit messy though. i find baby food works well if theres no brine shrimp around.
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#11 User is offline   rosedawson318

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Posted 05 December 2004 - 04:48 PM

java script:emoticon(':newfish')
smilie
:newfish :newfish




I dont exactly know how to tell females from males still!![COLOR=blue]


:unsure: :unsure: :unsure:


and can you breed black moores with gold fish?

This post has been edited by rosedawson318: 05 December 2004 - 04:51 PM


#12 User is offline   blinky000

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Posted 06 December 2004 - 09:34 AM

yeah. you get different varieties by breeding different fish. thats how they all came about! theyll be very interesting looking! ive got a few pearscale/moors and shub/pearscales. beautiful little things. :D
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#13 User is offline   maniacholic

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Posted 07 December 2004 - 04:22 PM

congrats "pinned worthy" not you but the article :lol:

BTW: NICE comic on the signature

This post has been edited by maniacholic: 07 December 2004 - 04:23 PM

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#14 User is offline   blinky000

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Posted 08 December 2004 - 09:13 AM

lol! thanks :)
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#15 User is offline   rosedawson318

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Posted 18 December 2004 - 06:21 PM

:BTT :BTT

#16 User is offline   mailboxck

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Posted 08 January 2005 - 09:45 PM

Which ones are fertilized? The transparent ones or the white ones? What else should i have in the tub besides the filter?

How long should i wait?
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#17 User is offline   coyote ugly

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Posted 09 January 2005 - 03:06 AM

The transparent eggs are the ones that are fertilized and the white ones are not so you have to take those out because fungus will grow eventually.Within 3~7 days the eggs will hatch.By tomorrow I'm sure you could see black dots(eyes)forming inside the egg. :) Be careful with the filter coz they might get sucked up or if the flow of the water is too strong they might end up with broken backs or so I was told :D

Good Luck Mailboxck!!!Post pics soon,okay?

This post has been edited by coyote ugly: 09 January 2005 - 03:08 AM

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#18 User is offline   mailboxck

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Posted 09 January 2005 - 05:49 AM

Ok thanks! I sure do hope they're ok. I am really a newbie and i paniced when i saw them this morning and immediately placed them in a small tub. I had to hand pick some of them out of the filter because some got sucked up. I hope i get babies soon. Pray pray!
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#19 User is offline   nz_turtle_girl

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Posted 11 February 2005 - 01:51 AM

woops wernt we spose to move the little fish- :o even if they looked soo crowded in there 40 gal, swimming in nee deep algy, breathing in 3 week old poop of there parents :( will they die? i feel so stupid

#20 User is offline   coyote ugly

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Posted 11 February 2005 - 01:57 AM

You should separate them with their parents.Chances are they will get eaten :o
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